It was still dark when my whistling kettle started to boil this morning. The first night in the new home was fairly comfortable and after the long drive yesterday, I was proper frothing for a surf.

I had a short drive to check it, arriving around 6ish and already the wind had started to get on it. Not quite at the White horses stage but it didn’t seem that far away. I got changed and ran down the slippery muddy cliff to where there were a few guys in the water and some nice looking sets.

I jumped off the rocks in the wrong place, scraping up my new fins.

Instead of the wind picking up it dropped, not making it proper glassy but it took a bit of the bump out. I surfed for a few hours until breakfast and the coffee had worn off, then did what every right thinking surfer with nothing better to do would. I recharged with chia seeds and more coffee and got back in there.

This session was even better than the first and I got loads of waves as there were even less people in the water. By the time I decided to get out the wind had picked up and was really messing it up. I finished on a short one and decided to just make for the boulders on the inside. I kooked up a bit and got bounced along on the inside, escaping lightly with only a tiny scratch on my belly and two small dings on my board. This left me with a board fixing session and a pot noodle.

I learnt two things today. Firstly Lennox Head Point is sick and secondly get in and out just in front of the shower as its way easier there (thanks to a friendly local for that tip).

Tomorrow is looking good for the morning so I reckon I’m going to get in early at Lennox Point and then explore down the coast a bit to find some where I have never heard of.

Day 2 - Board Damage

 

Day 2 - Board Repair

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